Soap for Hekate

Hekate’s Pandemic Soap

 

 

Lemon & Lemon Myrtle: clarifies, increases awareness, cleanses through purification and longevity and is anti-stress.

Eucalyptus & Blue Eucalyptus: stimulates, reinvigorates, heals, balances, protects and relieves mental and emotional stress.

 

I wanted to make an Australiana style cleansing soap I could use, since we are in Stage 3 lockdown here in Victoria and I wanted to wash my hands with something magical with a shout out to the land I live on.  I have always had a bottle of Australian Eucalyptus on hand but a mere few weeks before the pandemic really hit us, I was researching Australian natives and ended up buying a few bottles of different oils to experiment with.  This in hindsight was a boon, as these essential oils are perfect during this time.

The green soap pictured is Lemon (Citrus Limonium) and Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus Radiate).   I tried to mix some volcanic mud it it for the colour, however it sunk to the bottom as I placed the oils in before the mud and therefore did not blend right (lesson learned).  So then I added a swirl of all natural green food die so I could tell the two soaps apart.

The blue soap pictured is Lemon Myrtle (Backhousia Citriodora) and Blue Mallee Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus Globulus) and I used all natural blue food die.  I liked the scent of this one the best as its stronger and more appealing.

I then charged them with purpose: to cleanse, protect, bring long life, strength and luck whilst also de-stressing.

This is the quick and easy method of soap making I used which I have blogged about previously if you want to make your own (just add 6-12 drops of each oil to a 1/2 kilo batch of soap):

 

Melt and Pour Process Method

 


(C) *T. Georgitsis 2020

Candles for Hekate

Hekate Pandemic Candles – Sage, Pomegranite and various stones (depending on jar). This is the recipe I used:

DIY Candles: How To Make Soy Candles

I added some of my home grown organic sage and the crystals were hand picked from a supplier both which resonated with Hekate.  I used C-Soy from a local candle supplier and non toxic fragrance for the pomegranate and sage along with container maker which stops the soy from frosting in the glass jar.

I then charged them with purpose: to protect, cleanse, bring long life, strength and luck whilst healing.


(C) *T. Georgitsis 2020

DIY Candles: How to Make Soy Candles

1508055_10152536115414762_1345410208_n

Due to my various shrines/altars I go through quite a few candles.  It was becoming quite costly since I prefer to use sustainable sourced and environmentally friendly ingredients. Therefore, I decided to start making my own soy container candles since these are the most easiest using the scents, colours and containers I prefer .  I started by perusing various web pages and YouTube channels on the methods and asked my friends on FB for good local candle making suppliers and now its a snap 😉

candles 1

How To Make Soy Container Candles

Ingredients:
*Heat Resistant Containers;
*Measuring beaker or cup;
*Kitchen scales;
*Thermometer (long ones used to check milk heat for coffee frothing  is perfect);
*Soy wax flakes;
*Container maker;
*Essential oil or fragrance;
*Candle colour (colour blocks, food colouring or candle dye);
*Wicks pre-assembled with tabs (or alternatively you can buy them to assemble yourself);
*Two saucepans – one smaller than the other so it makes a double boiler;
*Baking paper or newspaper;
*a fork or spoon;
* long wooden spoon;
*sticky dots or double sided tape; and
*chopsticks, clothes pegs, icy pole sticks or wick holder bar.

1. First step is to find any heat resistant containers you would like to use to house the candles and ensure they are clean and dry.  You can use anything from re-purposed jam jars to tea cups.

2. With double sided sticky tape/sticky dots, stick the wick tabs to the center of the inside of the container.

3. Place the pre-prepared containers on some baking paper or newspaper to ensure cleanup is easy.  You might spill and you don’t want to be cleaning up wax off your surfaces.

4. Weigh your soy chips out and place them in the smaller saucepan  and attach the thermometer.  I like to make 1 (one) kilo batches at a time.

5. Fill the larger saucepan with water (about half way) and then put the smaller saucepan on top so it sits within the water.  You can use a fork or a spoon to stop the smaller saucepan from touching the bottom of the bigger saucepan.  DO NOT put the smaller saucepan containing the soy chips on a direct flame as this will cause a spill over or fire!

6. Now slowly melt the soy chips on a medium flame until it reaches the pouring point of 80-90 degrees celsius when using fragrance and 70 degrees celsius when using essential oil.  Mix with a long wooden spoon every so often and ensure you keep the heat at medium.  DO NOT try to rush this process by increasing heat to high as this will cause a the wax to spit, bubble over and catch on fire!

7. When the temperature reaches the pouring point add 50 mils of container maker.  Adding container maker stops the soy from streaking, cracking or frosting within the container.

8. Add the essential oil (6-8 mils per kilo of wax) or fragrance (50 mils per kilo of wax) and stir with the wooden spoon thoroughly.

9. Add the candle colour and stir thoroughly ensuring the colour is completely blended in with the wax (I like to use colour blocks but you can use food colouring or candle dyes.  Only one colour block is needed for each kilo of soy which gets you a nice vibrant colour of your choice.  Please note that using less will make the colour more pastel in shade which is more common for soy candles.).

10. Turn off the heat and let the soy wax cool down to a pouring temperature of 60 degrees celsius.

11. When the pouring temperature is achieved, pour into containers ensuring you leave  1 – 2 centimeters of space on the top of the containers.

12. Place the wick holder bar (or alternatively your chopsticks, clothes pegs, icy pole sticks) over your container to ensure the wick stays centered.

13. Let candles go cold and hard before moving.  For best results,  curing (letting them sit and dry) for 48 hours gets the best results.

14. Trim your wick to just 1 centimeter above the wax line and use.

(C) T. Georgitsis 2014

  1521218_10152582259789762_567335875_n